Tulsa · Broken Arrow · Bixby · Jenks · Sand Springs · Sapulpa
Appliance repair in Tulsa, OK
Tell Colby what broke. He answers his own phone and texts, and most visits are booked within 48 hours — often the same day.
4.9690 Google reviews- Colby answers his own phone
- Most visits within 48 hours, often same day
- Diagnostic fee waived when he does the repair
What’s broken? Pick your appliance
Refrigerator, washer, dryer and oven repair
Straight from Google · updates by itself
Reviews on Google
4.9690 reviews on GoogleRated 4.9 out of 5.
Dustin was amazing! He came in and fixed my washer/dryer combo fast. He was professional and a nice guy. He took the time to listen to me and also answer all my questions. 10 out of 10 recommend!!
Jimmy was very helpful and explained the issue and the steps he would take to fix it. The whole team was very communicative on delivery of parts and completion of services. I’ll definitely call them again… but hopefully I won’t need to 😬
Dustin West was fast and respectful. I had to send my mother over to unlock my door for him and she even commented on him. Thank you guys! We will be using you in the future! You gained two new customers!
The trouble chart · what’s it doing?
Appliance problems Colby fixes
The problems Colby gets called about most, what usually causes them, and what he checks first. Tap one for the whole story.
| If your… | It’s usually… | Colby checks |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator not cooling | Dust-caked condenser coils, a condenser or evaporator fan that quit, or a bad start relay | The fans, the condenser, the start relay, then defrost |
| Refrigerator leaking water | A frozen or clogged defrost drain, a cracked water line, or a loose filter housing | The drain line, the drain pan and the water connections |
| Refrigerator making noise | A fan blade scraping ice or wearing out, or a compressor working harder than it should | Which fan is loud, ice around the blades, the compressor |
| Refrigerator won’t turn on | A tripped breaker or dead outlet, a failed control board, or a bad thermostat | Power at the outlet, the control board, the thermostat |
| Fridge freezer not freezing | A defrost heater or thermostat that failed, so the coil ices over and blocks the cold air | Frost on the back panel, the defrost parts, the fan |
| Freezer not freezing | A worn door seal, a failed defrost part, an evaporator fan, or a compressor that won’t start | The door seal, the defrost system, the fan, the relay |
| Frost building up in the freezer | A door that doesn’t seal, or a defrost heater, timer or thermostat that stopped working | The gasket and each part of the defrost circuit |
| Ice maker not making ice | A water inlet valve that won’t open, a frozen fill tube, or a freezer that isn’t cold enough | Water to the valve, the fill tube, the freezer’s temperature |
| Ice maker leaking | A cracked fill cup, a loose supply line, or a valve that won’t shut all the way | The supply line, the inlet valve, where the water lands |
| Washer won’t drain | A sock or coin in the drain pump, a kinked drain hose, or a pump motor that stopped | The pump and its filter, then the hose and standpipe |
| Washer won’t spin | A lopsided load, a lid switch or door lock, a worn drive belt, or a motor coupling | The lid switch or door lock, the belt, the coupling |
| Washer leaking | A torn door boot on a front-loader, worn fill hoses, or a pump or tub seal giving out | Where it drips during the fill, the wash and the drain |
| Washer won’t start | A door lock or lid switch that doesn’t latch, a control board, or a timer | Power, the lock or switch, and the controls |
| Washer shaking or loud | Worn shock absorbers or suspension springs, a washer that isn’t level, or tub bearings | The level, the shocks and springs, the bearings |
| Washer won’t fill | Supply valves turned off, clogged inlet screens, or a water inlet valve that failed | The supply valves, the inlet screens, the valve coils |
| Dryer not heating | A blown thermal fuse, an open heating element, or a gas igniter or valve coil that failed | The fuse, the element or igniter, then the vent |
| Dryer won’t start | A door switch that doesn’t close, a blown fuse in the start circuit, or a motor that stalls | The outlet, then the door switch, fuse and motor in turn |
| Dryer takes too long to dry | Lint packed in the vent run most of the time; now and then a weak element or thermostat | Airflow at the outside vent first, then the heat |
| Dryer making noise | A worn idler pulley, drum rollers or glides, or a blower wheel with something caught in it | The pulley, the rollers, the glides and the blower |
| Dryer drum not turning | A drive belt that snapped, or an idler pulley that came apart and let the belt go slack | The belt, the pulley, and whether the motor runs |
| Dishwasher won’t drain | A clogged filter, food in the drain pump, or a drain hose kinked or blocked at the sink | The filter, the pump, the drain hose under the sink |
| Dishwasher not cleaning | Clogged spray arms, a dirty filter, a weak wash pump, or water that isn’t getting hot | The spray arms, the filter, the wash pump, the water heat |
| Dishwasher leaking | A worn door gasket, a loose water connection, a cracked hose, or a pump seal | Whether it drips at the door, underneath, or at the valve |
| Dishwasher won’t start | A door latch switch, a blown thermal fuse, a control board, or the child lock left on | The latch, the controls, and power at the junction box |
| Dishwasher not drying | A failed heating element, an empty rinse-aid dispenser, or a vent or fan that stopped | The heating element, the vent, the rinse-aid setting |
| Oven not heating | A burned-out bake element in an electric oven; a weak igniter in a gas one | The element or igniter, the gas valve, the sensor |
| Oven temperature wrong | A temperature sensor that reads off, a weak igniter, or a door that lets heat escape | The sensor’s reading, the igniter and the door seal |
| Oven won’t turn on | No power or gas reaching it, a failed control board, or a thermal fuse that tripped | Power and gas supply, the control and the fuse |
| Oven door won’t close | Broken door hinges, worn hinge springs, or a door knocked off its hinges | The hinges, the springs and how the door lines up |
| Gas burner won’t light | A wet or cracked spark igniter, a burner cap sitting crooked, or ports clogged with food | The igniter, the cap and ports, the spark module |
| Electric burner not heating | A coil burner or its socket burned out, a radiant element that failed, or a burner switch | The element, its socket, the burner’s control switch |
| Stove igniter keeps clicking | A spark switch stuck on, often after a spill or a wipe-down, or moisture in the burner | The spark switches, the module, and any moisture |
| Garbage disposal humming | Something wedged between the plate and the grinding ring, or a motor that has seized | The jam, the reset button and the motor itself |
Who answers the phone
You’ll talk to Colby.
Colby owns CJ Appliance Repair, and he’s the one who answers the calls, the texts and the emails. He takes care of your repair from the first call to the last screw.
He started fixing appliances as a junior at Jenks High, then spent years at an appliance service company doing appliance repair and heating and air before running his own. Whatever you’ve got, he’s likely had one apart before.
- Local to Tulsa — not a dispatch office
- A full diagnosis, so you know what’s wrong before you decide
- On time, fair, and he cleans up after
— Colby
From his job files
Recent appliance repair jobs in Tulsa
Kenmore dryer repair, Tulsa, OK
Jan 21, 2019 · Tulsa, OK
Gas cooktop repair, Tulsa, OK
Apr 5, 2019 · Tulsa, OK
Dryer pulley repair, Tulsa, OK
Feb 28, 2019 · Tulsa, OK
Scotsman ice maker repair, Tulsa, OK
Feb 13, 2019 · Tulsa, OK
Maytag oven repair, Tulsa, OK
Dec 14, 2018 · Tulsa, OK
Frigidaire oven repair service, Tulsa, OK
Oct 29, 2018 · Tulsa, OKNo surprises
How an appliance repair visit goes
- 1Call or text
Tell Colby what it’s doing. The brand and model help. He picks up, or texts you right back.
- 2Pick a time
Most visits are booked within 48 hours, many within a day, and often the same day.
- 3The diagnosis
Colby finds what’s actually wrong. There’s a fee to come out — waived when you have him do the repair.
- 4Fixed and tested
He repairs it, runs it, and cleans up. If it isn’t worth fixing, he tells you that too.
Every major brand
Appliance brands Colby repairs
CJ Appliance Repair is an independent repair company, not affiliated with any appliance brand.
Where Colby goes
Appliance repair in Tulsa and nearby towns
- Tulsa74103 74119 74120 74104 74105 74112 74114 74135 …
- Broken Arrow74011 74012 74014
- Owasso74055
- Jenks74037
- Bixby74008
- Sand Springs74063
- Sapulpa74066
- Glenpool74033
- Coweta74429
- Claremore74017 74019
- Catoosa74015
- Collinsville74021
- Skiatook74070
- Sperry74073
- Kiefer74041
Before you call
Appliance repair questions
QDo you charge to come out?
AYes. There’s a diagnostic fee for the visit, and if you have Colby do the repair, the diagnostic fee is waived.
QHow soon can you come?
AMost appointments are within 48 hours, many within 24, and often the same day. Call or text and Colby will give you the soonest time he has.
QWho will I talk to?
AColby, the owner. He answers the calls, the texts and the emails himself, and takes care of your repair from start to finish.
QShould I repair it or replace it?
AColby will tell you what’s wrong and what the repair involves, so you can decide. Sometimes a new appliance makes more sense, and he’ll say so.
QCan I text a photo?
AYes. Text a photo of the model tag, and of the problem if you can see it, to (918) 992-4002. It helps Colby know what he’s working on before he gets there.
Rather type it out?
Request an appliance repair
Tell us what's wrong and how to reach you. Colby will call or text you back.
- Calls and texts(918) 992-4002
- Tulsa, Oklahomaand the towns around it
- Texting?A photo of the model tag helps Colby know what he’s working on.